Fashion Icons Through The Ages: The Roaring Twenties

We've moved on in our series of fashion icons to the Grande Dames of the 1920's. Our generation is obsessed with the raucous fashion, lifestyle and allure of the rule breakers from this era. It all seems so wild and thrilling! It was difficult to choose who to add to this decade as the glamour stakes were seriously upped with the increase in film production. Celebrities knew how to work their image and were ready to cause the odd scandal or two! Meet some of the most beautiful and stylish stars of the 1920's. 

Josephine Baker

Known as the Black Pearl, Josephine began her hugely successful career in vaudeville. She was a little bit goofey but also super saucy on stage and her popularity saw her branch into an all singing, all dancing, acting profession. I think you'll agree she it totally ravishing and well due a spot on the icon list.

Louise Brooks

I'm obsessed with Louise Brooks 20's styling. When I think of the Roaring Twenties and the 'Flapper' she instantly springs to mind. The cinema goers adored her and she really popularised the bob haircut synonymous with the flapper. I find Louise Brooks smokey stare completely mesmerising!

I really am a true fan of Lousie Brooks and I've often had my hair cut in a similar style. This was me on a burlesque night out where I took my inspiration form her. I'm obviously happier...note to self: must work on serious scowley face for dramatic photos!

Clara Bow

I mean really...she looks like a little doll! Clara was a massive star in the 20's and a big box office draw. I just imagine the ladies of the day waiting with bated breath to see the fabulous outfits she'd wear next.

Norma Shearer

Norma was one of several actresses who had a big acting career that spanned the 1920's and 30's. I've seen several of her films and the costume designers and studios must have adored her as she always had the most gorgeous and lavish outfits imaginable. Oh how I wish we could dress like this every day!!!

Anita Page

She was one of America's sweetheart of the era and considered one of the most beautiful women of her time. Her clothing is absolutely to die for!!! 

Corrine Griffith

Another silent screen goddess, Corrine's style was impeccable. She looked mysterious and beautiful. She couldn't fail in influencing others!

Wow-wee! What a bunch of swanky gals they were! 

I find it impossible to predict who will be the fashion icons of our time. In 70 years will our future counterparts idolise Kate Beckinsale, Julianne Moore, Scarlet Johansson, Kiera Knightly, Emma Stone, Angelia Jolie? All stunningly beautiful women with oodles of style but will they be icons? 

Icon's Through The Ages: 1910, The beginning of celebrity.

It's no surprise that here at Dirty Fabulous HQ that we regularly think about fashion history. I can endlessly search the internet for more information and pictures of vintage fashion; the dresses, hats and accessories...but what about the women who wore them and inspired others. They are the ultimate fashion icons.
An 'icon' is defined as a person or thing regarded as a representative symbol or as worthy of veneration. Despite this description being a little stuffy we all know what it means and to find our fashion icons we must turn our attention to the land of celebrity.

We might think that 'celebrity' is a relatively new concept but society has always had people they looked up to and aspired to be like. But instead of reading about their fav celebs daily rituals, minute to minute via Twitter or Instagram our friends in the past gleaned occasional titbits of celebrity news from literature and newspapers.

Oh what a visually rich and voyeruristic world we live in now...
So let us take our social media accounts back with us to the early 20th Century. Technology had introduced the world of cinema and silent movies were making celebrities so accessible and close we could practically touch them. For the first time in history the wealth and fantasy dreamt up by huge film studios was being shared to the world and people went crazy for it. Some of the biggest actresses and fashion icons of that time were 

#LilianGish 

Totally gorgeous, Lilian had huge eyes which were perfect for the type of acting needed in silent films. She could easily inspire today's boho babes with a look that oozes melodrama and romance.

Whilst we're using our imaginary historical Instagram accounts to see what Lilian has been wearing lately we'd probably stumble across #MaryPickford 

#MaryPickford

Mary and Lillian were actually friends and it was Mary who introduced Lilian to her major acting career. I'm sure they swapped many a style secret! Mary was known for her fabulous blonde locks and caused outrage amongst her fans when she chopped it off in favour of the bob that was becoming popular in the 1920's.

I just adore how evocative the make-up of this era is paired with the black and white imagery. 

Next up we'll follow the many fashion dames of the Roaring 20's...stay tuned!

An unusual Portrait

I first came across Alex and his striking portraits at the vintage fair in the Burlington a couple of years ago.
I was hooked, They were so atmospheric and evocative of a bygone age, right up my street!
So I was super excited when Kathy got me a voucher for a portrait for Christmas!
Now I have to admit it wasn't last christmas I got the voucher but the previous one, I kept waiting for a day when I felt I could do the voucher justice!
And then it got to be so long that I thought I better use it before it expired altogether.
When I looked through his website, what appealed to me most was the rougher looking portraits of the men. The more textured and knarly looking the better as far as I'm concerned with this type of photograph.

I also spoke to Alex prior to the portrait to see how colour reacted to the process. When I got the voucher I had red hair, Alex told me that reds tend to look black and also to keep my signature reddish eyeshadow to a minimum. By the time I did the shoot my hair was blue, so I didn't really know what it would look like.
In keeping with the 19th century photography technique I wore an edwardian french lace blouse which was very demure and ladylike!
I decided to go very minimal with my make up but in hindsight I wish I had worn absolutely none at all. I had lip gloss on and I think my eyebrows are  too groomed looking! Next time I think I'll go straight from bed, messy hair and bare skin!
It's not the type of portrait that is all soft focus and photoshopped. It's a very raw look and that's what makes it so interesting.
Alex explained all of the steps involved from the beginning, from treating the aluminium plate, placing it in a silver tank for a timed period right through to developing the plate after the actual portrait, so you get to see the image develop on the aluminium in real time in the darkroom.

It's an amazing gift to give someone, very unique and if you are looking for an unusual idea for the man in you life I couldn't recommend it enough! 

Check out the video  too!

Analogue Studios

Meet Anna: The Film Fatale, Femme Fatale!

We're big fans of Film Fatale here in Dirty Fabulous but for those few who mightn't have heard about it can you tell us a bit about it?
We produce screenings and vintage parties. We run large-scale Prohibition parties at IMMA, where we transform the great halls of The Royal Hospital Kilmainham into the kind of elegant yet wild soirée that would do Jay Gatsby proud. Meanwhile, Film Fatale has its bi-monthly night out at the Sugar Club. We screen a classic film, and then throw a vintage party around it. There is a red-carpet photographer, usherettes serving popcorn and themed cocktails. With its wood-panelled walls and red velvet booths and curtains, The Sugar Club lends this vintage night the perfect setting. We have the best-dressed femme fatales in town, not to mention live music and The Andrews Sisters' Brothers (Dublin's best retro DJ's and the two best-dressed men).

The Sugar Club

Where has your love of nostalgic films and bygone eras come from?
I have a life-long love of classic movies, their music and fashion. I studied film and was the programmer for the Screen cinema for a few years where my big joy was programming classic films. I love being completely absorbed and transported into another world, I want to drink a Gibson with Margo Channing (Bette Davis, All About Eve), dance with Fred Astaire, step into the smoke-filled jazz bars of film noir or party at the Gatsbies. What I do now is recreate these events!

Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire

Is planning Film Fatale events all consuming or do you work it around another career?
It started as a side project outside of my job as a film programmer. I wanted to do Event Cinema and parties that don't work in a traditional cinema setting. Now it's an all-consuming job planning events in The Sugar Club, IMMA and for corporate clients as well.

How do you decide what films to feature or events to plan? Is it hard to come up with ideas or does your list of fabulous events just keep growing?
I have a never ending list of events I want to do based on what I feel passionate about, what I'd like to go to, what the best nights have been, what the audience have reacted best to and from chatting to people who come to my events. Some are inspired from films or the past or are a fusion. They all bring a certain level of escapism and glamour.

We are beyond excited for the Prohibition Party in IMMA as it will be our first 20's themed Film Fatale! Tell us a little about what we can expect there.

There has always been something special about our 1920s events. People really go the extra mile in terms of recreating the look. It made sense to take it to a bigger level and IMMA is just right as there are very few places in Dublin that you can recreate the majestic idea of Gatsbies Mansion with its manicured lawns, big hall and secret rooms. Once you enter the door of Prohibition, you’ll find ragtime bands, Charleston dancers, feather dancers, gambling, bath tub gin from tea cups and everything you would expect from a 1920s party. What made the last event so magical was the audience — everyone really embraced the look. I can honestly say I’ve never seen a better-dressed event. We also keep it fresh by fusing old and new with jazz-era style covers of modern songs, electro swing and a room that's 1920s to 1970s for those who want The Andrews Sisters’ Brothers all night long.

Most of your events are vintage themed. Do many people dress up and immerse themselves in the night? Is it ok to go in civvies? (why anyone wouldn't want to get dressed up is beyond us!)

We have a strict dress code for Prohibition and not a single person showed up in their civies. For something so specific, once-off and special, you need everyone to get on board. We're not as strict for the Sugar Club — occasionally we get someone in to meet their friends who isn't dressed up but after they’ve experienced it, they are usually the most dressed up at the next event. I don't like the culture of judging people based on what they're wearing. What we want is for people to embrace the theme of the night or the general vintage style, and to have fun with it. That can be as simple as some red lipstick and black eyeliner, classic vintage style or a bow-tie, to full on army suits or a full ball gown. Those who really go all-out don't get funny looks, they get congratulated. They are a lovely crowd and appreciate when you put the effort in.

Fabulous Prohibition Party Goers in their 1920's finery!

Any recommendations for inspiration? Where do you get your style inspiration from for your day to day and working life?
For events I throw myself into it as much as possible and put a lot of thought into the era or the film. That’s been ballgowns, army suits, a Tippi Hendren Birds costume, while  for week-night screenings and the office I usually go 1960s style which is the most day- to-day wearable era. I love fur coats in the winter and look most 40s or 50s in the summer. I get inspiration from films (anything featuring Edith Head dresses), amazing vintage shops and fairs, vintage blogs and I can go down the rabbit hole of pinterest for hours at a time. I also like a good root through Etsy but nothing beats being able to touch the material and feel the quality. The best inspiration is often found among real women at Film Fatale or out on the street. I like to see how they mix old and new and how they pull an outfit together to fit their own personality.

A few pics of 1920's fashion to inspire (courtesy of Vintage Everyday)

Crazily, there are people out there who just wouldn't watch an old movie. If you could convince them that they were seriously missing out, what would your top 3 absolute, must see, recommendations be?
They are crazy! You learn a lot about the world from old movies, how things have changed, how things never seem to change but most importantly you’re being promised an amazing cinema experience. The best films shine through so if every critic and film lover has been saying that a film is amazing for 50 years you know that your in for an experience with amazing actors, camerawork, dialogue and story. My favourites are Vertigo, Gone with the wind and All About Eve but I’d also highly recommend anything Fred and Ginger for frothy funny, solid rom-com humour and the most amazing dancing and costumes you’ll ever see.

The ice cool queen, Kim Novak in Vertigo

Bette Davis and Co. in All About Eve (ooh I adore this movie!)

 Ah... Mr Rhett Butler! 

Finally, we're busy planning our outfits but what will you be wearing on the night?
If I wasn’t working on the night, I’d be found wearing  head-to-toe beading, either a drop-waist flapper dress or a bias cut 1930s dress with all the frills, fur shrug, gloves, long chains and a sparkling head piece. I need to be a little bit more flexible for all the running around that’s involved so the performers will have the show-stopping outfits and I’ll be in something simple but sparkling and with lots of accessories. Actual 1920s dresses are antiques at this stage but luckily fashion is forever looking back so there’s amazing 1950s, 1960s, 1970s and 1980s vintage dresses that are inspired from 1920s fashion that you get your hands on and have this fun original era fusion look.

....Thanks Anna for letting us have a snoop through your busy life! You've certainly added to our excitement for March 14th's Prohibition Party. 
If you haven't snapped up your tickets for what's going to be the most fabulous and glamourous party ever then hurry up and get them here  before they are all gone!!!