How to care for your vintage dresses

Ok, so we can't all be as miraculously talented as the great Coco Chanel but even a novice can apply a little tlc, if needed, to their vintage dress.

First off, here are the basics for looking after your precious vintage dress. Don't forget to use the same principles for any cherished piece in your wardrobe whether brand new or decades old.

• Dry cleaning - prepare to make your dry cleaner your new best friend! We use Grafton Cleaners on South William Street and have consistently found them amazing. Fear not, if they aren't accessible to you any good dry cleaner will treat your dress with the care it deserves. Don't be afraid to ask your cleaner about how they will treat your dress. Most vintage dresses won't have a care label but a careful and considerate dry cleaner can suss out the best process for your dress. Sometimes they will test the beading, cover it up or use the machine at a cooler temperature. We've never lost a dress in the dry cleaning process and after thousands of dresses have passed through our boutique that's saying something!

• Storing - once you've had your dress dry cleaned take it out of the clear plastic bag as soon as you get it home. Your dress needs to breath! Instead snip a hole in the top of an old pillow or sheet and drape this over the hanger instead. Keep your dress out of direct sunlight as it can irreversibly fade prints and colours. Fasten any closures and do up any zips as it will help maintain your dresses shape. Making sure your wardrobe isn't packed to the rafters will do the same (although I'm totally guilty of over-stuffing my wardrobe!)

• Hand-washing -  Some vintage dresses prefer a good ol' fashioned hand-wash in lukewarm water with a soft cleaning agent like Woolite. Most 70's dresses are very easy to care for and can be washed on a hand wash setting in your washing machine, check for a label as they were definitely in use by this time. If your dress is jersey or stretchy you can be fairly sure it can be washed. Rayon, a favourite fabric in the 40's, can be handwashed in lukewarm water but I wouldn't recommend it if you havent done it before. Your dress will shrink as the fabric contracts and this can be scary but it can be ironed out again, it takes a long time and lots of patience! If your dress has any covered buttons and is prior to 1960's it will more than likely have steel buttons, DO NOT GET THESE WET!!! They will rust as your dress is drying and will ruin your item. If you aren't sure and still want to handwash then you will need to remove the buttons for washing and re-attach when dry. If your dress is verging on antique and of the most delicate quality then start off with spot cleaning only in a dry cleaners for any marks and then follow with an airing for freshness. The same goes for anything heavily beaded and with fur or feather trims.

• Try using padded hangers, avoid metal ones as you don't want the edges to damage delicate fabrics or cause rust marks long term.

• Steaming your vintage garment or having it pressed at a dry cleaners is preferable to ironing it. Think of it like a beneficial spa treatment! The more you over-treat your vintage dress the weaker the structure of the fabric becomes. You know that high street jumper you keep throwing in the washing machine that's become a threadbare mess, your dress will behave in exactly the same way, so less is more! Oh and never iron velvet, beading or sequins!

• Vintage lace is especially delicate so always be extra gentle with this incredible fabric. You could try storing it flat so that the full weight of the dress isn't dragging on the lace. Rolling it in acid-free tissue paper will also increase the longevity of a vintage lace dress. Heavily beaded dresses should be treated similarly.

Now, down to some maintenance a la Ms Chanel (well, really this is for novices, Chanel would probably role her eyes at these basics as pretty much everyone could sew in her era!)

The fact is vintage dresses were made better than today's mass produced dresses. More time was spent on them, better fabrics were used and the tailoring was impecable. This said, vintage dresses can be 20-90 years old so a little up-keep might be necessary at times.

Don't let this put you off. I've had gorgeous dresses that I've worn plenty of times and have never had to do anything with. Those dresses that have required tlc have been totally worth the little extra time! 

• Always repair minor tears and rips as soon as possible as they will only get bigger. There are endless tutorials online on how to hand stitch like this one all you have to do is find one you enjoy and practice on a scrap piece of fabric or old pillow case. If this is too daunting then drop your dress to a local seamstress or alterations place to do the work for you. We use Fitz Alterations on Drury Street and find them brilliant.

•  Re-hem your dress if it falls down so that it doesn't snag on anything. Again you could do this yourself (I can't count the amount of times I've fixed a hem on my own collection!). It's so super easy you really shouldn't be afraid to give it a go but don't worry the professionals are happy to fix these too!

• If you get a tear or hole in the fabric of a dress which isn't on a seam don't fret, your dress may still be salvageable. Try adding some beadwork, lace or an applique that fits in with the overall look of the dress. This little addition might even enhance the fabulousness of your dress!

• Replace any buttons or hook and eye closures that fall off. It's back to the internet for a tutorial . If you've never replaced a button then give it a whirl, it's super simple and I promise it will give you an immense feeling of accomplishment!

The history of your vintage dress will enhance it's charm and authenticity. Rest assured that minor flaws will never detract from how stunning a vintage piece looks when worn.

So, relish the small imperfections and lets hope that we'll all age as beautifully as vintage clothing!

Jean Patou

On March 14th, Dirty Fabulous will be dancing our way to Film Fatale's Prohibition Party. In the run up we'll be delving into the 1920's and 30's a little more.

Our first little look back to this era introduces us to this man:

Jean Patou

Patou was a french designer who, after his initial launch was halted by World War I, returned in the 1920's with a bang. He created his dresses with both Parisian and American women in mind and recognised the potential that couture fashion, as an industry held. In the mid 20's both Coco Chanel (who we are all familiar with) and Jean Patou introduced hugely popular sportswear lines. It was a revolutionary move from these two different design houses. Patou focused on finding swimwear fabrics that wouldn't shrink and innovating luxury leisurewear.

Despite not being as well known for his flapper dresses, you can see they were utterly gorgeous:

Courtesy of The Librarian Tells All

It was mostly due to Patou's designs in 1929 that the flapper silhouette became "old news". House of Patou introduced gowns which returned the waist to it's natural, higher point and dropped the hemlines to the floor. It was a more romantic look which was once again embraced by high society and the fashion elite. 

courtesy of Ye Old Fashion

Courtesy of The Met Museum

Images from Pinterest

House of Patou also created some of the most world famous fragrances and perfumes, including Jean Patou's, Joy. 

Unfortunately, Patou died at an early age in 1936 and his sister and her husband stepped in to carry on his creative endeavours. The dresses from this period were still magnificent and the Couture house continued it's success. Many of today's most famous designers spent a spell with House Of Patou including Marc Bohan, Karl Lagerfeld, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian LeCroix. 

This hat is hilarious and fabulous in equal measures!

There have been so many brilliant and talented fashion designers over the past 100 years. Hopefully you've enjoyed your introduction to one more! 

Which fashion era is for you? Part 1:The Belle Epoque to the 1930's

The Belle Epoque 

The Belle epoque was a time of great luxury and wealth for a select portion of society. It was an era which ran from 1890 to 1914.

Fashion at the time was purely an indulgent hobby and a way for the ladies in high society to showcase their wealth.

Garments were extremely elaborate, extravagant and painstakingly made! 

High neck blouses, ruffles, embroidery and puffed sleeves were signature elements of the time, with low-cut necklines and bare backs fashionable for evening wear.

Corsets were an absolute must and ladies were remoulded into an exaggerated S-silhouette that was popular at the time.

It was absolutely beyond comprehension to wear clothing that didn't require a third party to help you into, in fact it would have been vulgar to get dressed on your own!

1913 Tea Dress

Images from Pinterest

Towards the end of the era, also referred to as the Edwardian or Titanic era, corsetry and ladies silhouettes became looser, fashion became more innovative and women became freer.

Downton Abbey has been able to highlight many of the styles from this era from the constricting outfits worn by Maggie Smiths, Dowager Countess to the younger ladies of the house looser and more feminine dresses.

The 1920's - Flappers and Coco Chanel

After the First World War fashion became more dynamic. Trends changed quickly, hem lines rose and fell and hair styles became more daring with the introduction of the blunt bob.

Women abandoned the corsets and began wearing loose fitting "Flapper Dresses" on their boyish frames.

Coco Chanel also championed the wearing of suits and sports wear on a daily basis. Her look was more restrained and chic.

Louise Brooks, Flapper icon!

Cloche hats and elaborate headpieces became hugely popular as they could be worn easily with the shorter bobbed hairstyle of the time.

images from Pinterest

1920's Chanel fashion

Dirty Fabulous 1920's cream silk, beaded, flapper dress

1930's - Hollywood Glamour

Captured in the decadence and glamour of the movie stars of the era, the 1930's saw fashion take on a more elegant and womanly appearance.

Waists became nipped in once more and dresses were cut on the bias and draped seductively to show of feminine curves.

Courtesy of Pinterest

Courtesy of The Met

1930's Vogue from My Vintage Vogue

The Great Depression meant that restraint was used by both designers and customers. Fashion became practical but sophisticated.  New, cheaper fabrics were introduced and fashion started to become more accessible to the masses.

Hollywood did allow for most to get lost in the heddy glamour, which was a much needed form of escapism.

Bette Davis in the 1930's

1930's fashion has had a huge revival recently as designers such as Jenny Packham and Ellie Sabb recreate the bias-cut, draping of this time. 

I adore the 1930's. The original fashion offers a real feast for the eyes as do the movies of this era. You could easily get lost in this world of glamour!

Dirty Fabulous 1930's blush silk wedding dress 

Dirty Fabulous 1930's chartreuse velvet gown

lace collar detail on Dirty Fabulous candlelight silk wedding gown

Find your perfect era in Dirty Fabulous, call us on 01 6111842 or email info@dirtyfabulous.com for your appointment

Elsa Schiaparelli, the glamorous surealist!

Elsa Schiaparelli was a fashion pioneer from the 1920's throughout her career to the 1950's. She was arguably one of the most important designers of her era along with Coco Chanel, although she couldn't have been more different than her understated counterpart!
She began designing basic sweaters and sporting clothes but in the early 1930's expanded her collections to include everything up to couture.
Schiaparelli was an artist and a designer, her pieces drew heavily on surrealism and whimsy. She collaborated with many famous artists on her collections which had themes such as circus life, Greek mythology and the zodiac.
She loved to stray away from what was currently in vogue and constantly liked to shock the fashion world.
Personally, I love Elsa's designs. She was a true innovator and when I look at her early pieces I can see many of today's designers paying homage to her. Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Lulu Guinness  and Alexander McQueen echo elements of Schiaparelli's collections.

The many signature Schiaparelli elements:

• High Waistlines
• Shoulder pads and broad shoulders
• Exaggerated Silhouettes
• Bright colours such as royal blue and shocking pink
• Trompe L'oeil knits
• Zippers and decorative elements
• Long-line, bias-cut dresses
• Backless evening gowns
• Geometric prints
• Whimsical designs

As you can see from the collection below, Schiaparelli's customers needed to have a degree of confidence and attitude to wear her pieces!

1930s evening gown with typically exaggerating structure, this one focusing on the bust

The Tears Dress, fabric designed by Salvador Dali courtesy of the V&A 

As pictured in Vanity Fair

Typical high waisted mermaid dress with pink embroidered bolero which highlighted the shoulders

The Apollo of Versailles Cape, 1938

Backless pale silk gown from the Circus Collection

This beautiful pink and ivory silk gown was designed to accentuate the female form and represent whats underneath the corset,

This was an idea that Elsa first showcased with her controversial "Skelleton Dress" in 1938.

While on honeymoon last year Caroline went to see this dress in the Museum of Modern Art in Vienna. It must have been incredibly radical looking in 1938!

1940's dress with whimsical butterfly print

Loud geometric silk print coat from the late 1930's

Droooool...... I love this 1940's cape with the giant bee! 

Schiaparelli's more wearable evening jacket ensembles. When she was young, Elsa was often told that she was short and unattractive so it was her desire to create pieces which elongated and enhanced the female form.

Pale green evening suit with gold buttons

Humorous hand clasp belt

Bias Cut gold silk evening gown

Moorish inspired belt

Elsa's 'shocking pink' and black 1950s ballgown

Beautiful salmon pink and embroidered 1940s blouse

1940's purple, floral garland decorated evening gown

Beautiful contrasting blue and coral crepe gown with fish buttons

Blouse from the Zodiac collection with sequins bursting out to represent sun rays

Above images courtesy of  The Met Museum

Shocking pink 1930's gown as featured in Vogue to celebrate The Mets exhibition  “Impossible Conversations,” 

Which explored the striking parallels between Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada 

1940's Mirror print suit also from Vogue