Spotlight on Designers at Dirty Fabulous: Kiviette

We have some special gems in the store at the moment so I thought I would tell you a little more about their provenence!

First up is
"Kiviette"

This beautiful 1940's strapless gown is currently in stock with us at Dirty Fabulous.

Bust - 40"

Waist - 30"

Born Yetta Schminsky,in 1893, she married Abel Kiviat and thereafter used the single name Kiviette professionally.

She designed for both theatre and fashion and was a very famous Broadway designer particularly during the 1930's.
Her Broadway career spanned from 1917 to 1948 and encompassed forty five Broadway shows, all musicals except two. 

She continued designing commercial fashion until the 1950's.

These original sketches by Kiviette were discovered in 1981 by museum director Oskar Pausch in The Theatre Museum at the Lobkowitz Palace in Vienna.

They were among an incredible 1,400 original sketches for musicals and musical revues produced on Broadway from 1900 to 1925 by over 66 American designers (20 of which have yet to be identified).

No one is quite sure how this collection came to be there but oh how I would love to see this astonishing array of sketches!!
They are so glamorous I can only imagine what the actual costumes were like, I'm picturing lush velvet, shimmering silks and sparkling jewels!

  

They are completely charming and full of fun!

During her Broadway career she designed for many, soon to be stars including, Fred and Adele Astaire (Fred's older sister and dance partner for 27 years)

Funny Face, Original Broadway production, 1927

Costumes by Kiviette

Music and Lyrics by Ira and George Gershwin

Tillie Losch, Fred Astaire, Adele Astaire, Frank Morgan & Helen Broderick

Tillie Losch

Fred Astaire and his sister Adele

The above photos are from the Broadway production of The Band Wagon, with costumes by Kiviette, New Amsterdam Theatre 1931 - 1932. 

This would be the last time that Fred performed on stage with his sister before she retired to marry Lord Charles Cavendish.

This is Lee Merriweather, winner of Miss America 1955 in a fabulous Kiviette evening gown

We always find it so astonishing to be able to look back at at the history of our vintage dresses.

It's thrilling to learn so much wonderful details about a piece in our collection.

This is especially possible when they have been created by a well known designer.

It makes them even more special!!!

oooooh now you look familiar!

Claudette Colbert in The Palm Beach Story, 1942

(photo via theblondeatthefilm.com)

Lace long sleeve gown with draped chiffon full length skirt - €980 (€735 in our April sale)

Jean Patchett appearing in Vogue in the 1950s
(photo via www.chictopia.com)

Dirty Fabulous

1950s "Sabiens"hot pink satin structured one shoulder dress with peplum €410 (€307.50 in our April sale)

Marilyn Monroe looking smokin hot! This is a wardbrobe still for the movie "Niagra" shot in 1952, released in 1953.

Dirty Fabulous

This is a super awesome 2 piece suit, single rhinestone strap wiggle dress with ice blue satin feature bow and the cutest little matching jacket. €480 (€360 in our April Sale)

Carey Mulligan on the cover of Vogue giving it her greatest Gatsby style.

Dirty Fabulous

1930's chartreuse green velvet gown (much closer to the colour of Careys dress in real life!) €420 (€315 in our April sale)

Elsa Schiaparelli, the glamorous surealist!

Elsa Schiaparelli was a fashion pioneer from the 1920's throughout her career to the 1950's. She was arguably one of the most important designers of her era along with Coco Chanel, although she couldn't have been more different than her understated counterpart!
She began designing basic sweaters and sporting clothes but in the early 1930's expanded her collections to include everything up to couture.
Schiaparelli was an artist and a designer, her pieces drew heavily on surrealism and whimsy. She collaborated with many famous artists on her collections which had themes such as circus life, Greek mythology and the zodiac.
She loved to stray away from what was currently in vogue and constantly liked to shock the fashion world.
Personally, I love Elsa's designs. She was a true innovator and when I look at her early pieces I can see many of today's designers paying homage to her. Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Lulu Guinness  and Alexander McQueen echo elements of Schiaparelli's collections.

The many signature Schiaparelli elements:

• High Waistlines
• Shoulder pads and broad shoulders
• Exaggerated Silhouettes
• Bright colours such as royal blue and shocking pink
• Trompe L'oeil knits
• Zippers and decorative elements
• Long-line, bias-cut dresses
• Backless evening gowns
• Geometric prints
• Whimsical designs

As you can see from the collection below, Schiaparelli's customers needed to have a degree of confidence and attitude to wear her pieces!

1930s evening gown with typically exaggerating structure, this one focusing on the bust

The Tears Dress, fabric designed by Salvador Dali courtesy of the V&A 

As pictured in Vanity Fair

Typical high waisted mermaid dress with pink embroidered bolero which highlighted the shoulders

The Apollo of Versailles Cape, 1938

Backless pale silk gown from the Circus Collection

This beautiful pink and ivory silk gown was designed to accentuate the female form and represent whats underneath the corset,

This was an idea that Elsa first showcased with her controversial "Skelleton Dress" in 1938.

While on honeymoon last year Caroline went to see this dress in the Museum of Modern Art in Vienna. It must have been incredibly radical looking in 1938!

1940's dress with whimsical butterfly print

Loud geometric silk print coat from the late 1930's

Droooool...... I love this 1940's cape with the giant bee! 

Schiaparelli's more wearable evening jacket ensembles. When she was young, Elsa was often told that she was short and unattractive so it was her desire to create pieces which elongated and enhanced the female form.

Pale green evening suit with gold buttons

Humorous hand clasp belt

Bias Cut gold silk evening gown

Moorish inspired belt

Elsa's 'shocking pink' and black 1950s ballgown

Beautiful salmon pink and embroidered 1940s blouse

1940's purple, floral garland decorated evening gown

Beautiful contrasting blue and coral crepe gown with fish buttons

Blouse from the Zodiac collection with sequins bursting out to represent sun rays

Above images courtesy of  The Met Museum

Shocking pink 1930's gown as featured in Vogue to celebrate The Mets exhibition  “Impossible Conversations,” 

Which explored the striking parallels between Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada 

1940's Mirror print suit also from Vogue